曾春华,胡泰桓,张会领,李志强,李高聪,田艳

• 1:广东海洋大学海洋工程学院
• 2:河海大学港口海岸与近海工程学院
• 3:广东海洋大学电子与信息工程学院

摘要(Abstract)：

【目的】探讨青安湾海滩冲流带对台风"韦帕"波动响应特征的主要模态及其波浪分量驱动因子。【方法】于2019年8月1日11时39分至13时33分台风"韦帕"期间在徐闻青安湾海滩现场采集95组冲流带剖面地形数据和同步碎波带波浪数据。采用复经验正交函数方法(CEOF)分解冲流带滩面波动的主要模态,利用快速傅立叶变换(FFT)和连续小波变换方法分析波浪内部结构及其时频分布。【结果与结论】所采集波浪由近长重力波(0.01～0.04 Hz)、远长重力波(0.004～0.010 Hz)和重力波(>0.04 Hz)三大波浪分量组成,近长重力波比重最大,重力波第二,远长重力波第三。冲流带的滩面不同位置响应变化趋势迥异,可由累积方差为96.4%前四个模态完整表征。第一模态解释了56.3%的滩面变化,由近长重力波主导。第二模态方差占比19.0%,由重力波控制。第三模态方差占比13.1%,由远长重力波控制。第四模态方差占比8.0%,关键波分量是重力波。近长重力波主导冲流带的响应趋势,近长重力波、重力波和远长重力波分量耦合强度及分布的随机性导致了冲流带滩面复杂的变化。

关键词(KeyWords)： 青安湾;冲流带;台风“韦帕”;复经验正交函数法(CEOF)

Abstract:

Keywords:

基金项目(Foundation): 国家自然科学基金项目（41676079,42176167）;; 广东海洋大学创新强校项目（Q18307、230419102）;; 湛江市非资助科技攻关专题（2020B01435）

作者(Author): 曾春华,胡泰桓,张会领,李志强,李高聪,田艳

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